Mike D'Angelo, hands down.
He used to write for Tim Out New York, then did some stuff for Variety, and now I think he writes for verve.
Anyways, the guy knows his stuff, writes VERY intelligently without being pretentious, and injects a lot of humor into his stuff. He's great.
I also like Manohla Dargis a lot as well and have followed her criticism from the LA Weekly to the LA Times and now to the NY Times. I don't always agree with her (she panned
Dogville and loved
Elephant), but as is the case with Mr. D'Angelo, she writes intelligently and has a nice writing style.
I should also include J. Hoberman and Amy Taubin. Exceptional writers, those two.
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Awkwardness happening to someone you love!